Blonde Me Baby!
highlifts and scalp bleaches.
did you know, loreal invented the first high lift tint, and it was created as we transitioned from streaking to foiling.
the new foiling technique meant the process was a lot slower, so instead of using bleach- which traditional bleach doesn’t stop processing, the highlift was introduced as it will stop processing after an hour, meaning those foils that were done first, wouldn’t end up as chewing gum, or on the floor.
if you are lifting a nice clean level 7 you can easily use a highlift to achieve a nice clean result, but below that you are starting to push the boundaries..
this is when we reach for bleach…
scalp
bleaching is another kettle of fish altogether.
if you reach for cheap powder bleach, you risk damaging the hair, and creating a sensitive scalp when it comes to toning…
invest in a lightener that is specifically designed for the process.
i’ve been a scalp bleach for 30 years, and have used every product under the sun, had my fair share of blisters, burning toners, snapping hair, so i know what it feels like first hand…
I was doing some training at Tafe once, and a student told me “your toners burn”
which lead to this…
toners can burn, any toner can burn..
but let’s look at your application of a scalp bleach..
unlike italians, we slap that bleach on at the roots, and on the scalp…
we aren’t bleaching skin…we are bleaching hair…
-italians by the way, apply 1/2 cm off the scalp as the bleach expands down the hairshaft to the root, keeping it off the skin-
after you’ve slapped that good old lightener on, with 20 or 30vol….
you let it process, ( don’t forget the tail comb for the client in case it’s itchy) then rinse it…in some nice warm water…let’s open those pores up,
don’t forget to get in and give it a good scrub with shampoo, before rinsing it again..
the toner is literally applied to the scalp again, and smooshed into the hair, and to top it off, give it a good rub all thru the scalp and the hair…that was my answer to why toners burn..
of course not all stylists do the above..
using a good cream bleach,
a good application, cool water rinse, flat palm shampoo, cool water rinse again, and applying your toner like a tint is going to have a much better outcome for your client!
and low and slow..i bring my level 6 up with 10 vol and artego lovely lights cream…
And dont forget, DONT USE HEAT...the scalp produces enough heat for lift, without us using external heat processes!
take the time to make your scalp bleach clients more comfortable and their service enjoyable, and the end result amazing!
and if you didn’t reach level 10…don’t try to tone to level 10!!
PS- Just my opinion....