That thing called a cuticle

so, here’s some interesting things to think about regarding the cuticle on the hair shaft. 

the cuticle is a fish like scale that grows down the hair shaft, formed from dead cells,  it’s the outside layer of the hair and protects the cortex, and medulla- 

if you fry it off, it’s screwed. only the cortex remains- hence why colour won’t “stay in” or fade very quickly- as it’s protectant is gone.

the cuticle of our hair also plays a part in frizz. 

water breaks hydrogen bonds, which opens the cuticle up. if the cuticle hasn’t been sealed back down before the hair is dry, it will be frizzy-

a fine tooth comb on damp hair is a must.

which also means, that steam opens the cuticle, so if your client has a shower without a shower cap, steam from the shower will open the cuticle, hence the leave in-

leave in treatments seal the cuticle and prevent it from further damage on a daily basis, combing them in is something you should educate your client on doing, and using them everytime the hair is exposed to moisture, or using a fine tooth comb every time too

Very glassy hair by appearance normally means the cuticle is very compact and closed, making it harder for colour to penetrate- more commonly seen in children over adults…

the cuticle is clear, semi permanent colour stains the cuticle as the majority of the colour sits on the cuticle layer, with minimal penetration into the cortex, fading over time as the hair is shampooed, and permanent colour should sit inside the cortex, and the cuticle should remain translucent, you should be able to “see through it”

with grey coverage, no one wants translucent coverage, although this is more natural.

block coverage will mean that colour is “lost” when the hair is shampooed- this is actually staining coming off the cuticle.

always encourage your clients to wear a shower cap when not shampooing- to avoid steam, use a fine tooth comb after detangling the hair, and a leave in treatment to assist in sealing the cuticle before styling, and make sure you offer all of these items in your retail area so you can assist in the home care for your client!